Caracas - A City with Two Faces

Caracas, a city of about 5 million people, separated from the Caribean Sea by only a few mountains enjoys a very pleasant tropical climate. If you follow the recommendations of you traveller's guide, you will start exploring the city in the safer quarters like Altamira, Sabana Grande, Chacao, or Las Mercedes. You will encounter a city very much like any other American city, maybe apart from the palm trees. You will find gigantic shopping malls, cinema palaces, overflowing highways, skyscraping office buildings and not to forget advertisement all over the place. This is the first face of the city with which every tourist that ever decided to pay a visit to Caracas is familiar.
A visit to the historical centre of  the city turns out to be very pleasant. You can take a breath of colonial history. Simon Bolivar, 'El Libertador', is celebrated as the national hero and you cannot walk through the city centre without being reminded of him constantly. The heart of the historical part of the city is the Plaza Bolivar, around which administrative buildings and the treasures of history are located.
But then there is the second face, that there is little to find about in traveller's guides. And even with the best intentions, it is after all not so easy to be faced with it. It is the part of the city that winds up the mountain hills, where the roads become narrow and where regular cab drivers refuse to take you. It is the part of the city that should not be there and the part of the city for whose inhabitants this side is dedicated. The following pictures show how more than 50 percent of the population of Venezuela actually lives. These are pictures of one of the slums of Caracas, so called Barrios.  The word Barrio is not even mentioned in the "Lonely Planet" traveller's guide for Venezuela and if you google it, you immediately find webpages, strongly advising you not to go there.

Usually, the development of a barrio starts as an illegal settlement. If its inhabitants are lucky, the settlement will be accepted by the city government after some time and some basic infrastructure is supplied like water, electricity, and public transport. In this particular barrio, water was supplied, but since all the pipes were leaking, running water only existed for a couple of hours a day at most.

Even among people inside the barrio, there is a large gradation of poverty. Some families have jobs in the city or in the barrio providing a minimal income. It allows them to live in simple stone houses. But there are also families, who don't have anything apart from many mouths to feed and an empty fridge. Sadly enough, the notion of family in this context usually comprises a mother with lots of children and without a husband. The saddest examples I've seen were: a mother, seriously ill without hope of recovery, alone with three children, living inside a few aluminum walls ...

... and a twenty-seven year old grand mother, living with her children and grandchildren in a place with a few rags and lots of nothing.

On a warm and sunny Caracas mornin'
A poor little baby child is born
In the barrio
And his mama cries
'cause if there's one thing that she don't need
it's another hungry mouth to feed ...
[E. Presley]
It is certainly a common phenomenon that poverty is correlated with lots of children. Children, who only know the area where they grow up. Children that usually don't go to school regularly. Children who have to support their mothers and younger siblings. Children with dreams.
Pater Miguel, born in Belgium, has been living in this Barrio for fourty years, dedicating his life to the people supporting them in their struggle to survive. He is always welcome especially in the poorest areas. He is also a patron of the clinic "Casa de la Salud", where German doctors provide basic help to the inhabitants. The clinic is founded by the organization "Ärzte für die dritte Welt" (doctors for the Third World), which distributes collected donations in various places around the world.
A few examples of treatment: Removing bullets (maybe once a month) or destroyed teeth (10-20 a day).
Most of the houses are built without foundation, and if needed they are just extended by another floor. Therefore, the houses are basically unprotected against landslides. Many houses show marks of the slides. Stone walls just break and floors develop huge steps inside the room.
The last pictures show the local church and a lonely Christmas tree.
There is no copyright for the pictures. Feel free to use them as long as you use them in favour of the people shown on the pictures. If you need them in higher resolution just send me an email: Johannes Martin